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By Maura Elizabeth Cunningham

As the end of summer vacation quickly draws near, we at The China Beat have been talking about what we read during our break from the academic grind. The summer provides an opportunity to catch up on books we missed, check out some more eclectic choices, and even read ahead when publishers are nice enough to share advance copies of forthcoming titles. Rather than just keep these conversations in-house, we decided to write up short “book reports” on some of the China-related works, both new and old, we’ve been enjoying during these summer months.

Here are quick introductions to five of the books that I’ve read this summer; stay tuned for similar posts from other China Beatniks in the coming weeks.

• Nothing to Envy: Ordinary Lives in North Korea by Barbara Demick

While Demick’s book isn’t exactly about China, I’m including it on this list — and placing it at the top — because it’s one of the best books I’ve read this year. China is actually a major actor in Nothing to Envy, as several of the North Korean refugees Demick interviewed for the book were inspired to escape when they realized the standard of living was far higher in market-socialist China than in communist North Korea.

What I found most appealing about Demick’s book was the “ordinary lives” aspect of her work; I was fascinated by her descriptions of activities like shopping, dressing, and using public transportation, none of which is anything close to easy in the grim gray world of North Korea. She structures her narrative around the oral histories of six North Korean defectors (interviewed while Demick was stationed in Seoul with the Los Angeles Times), and each of their stories contributes to constructing a broader portrait of daily life in a police state. Nothing to Envy is a sometimes wrenching read, particularly in chapters dealing with the North Korean famine of the 1990s, but it’s also a well-written and accessible introduction to what may be the world’s least-understood country. Far from depicting North Koreans as faceless masses marching in lockstep, Demick’s work sheds light on the lived experiences of individuals who suffer heartbreak, disillusionment, and self-doubt as they struggle with the decision to defect.

For another look inside North Korea, check out A State of Mind, a 2004 British documentary that follows two girls as they train as gymnasts for the Mass Games.

• 800,000,000: The Real China by Ross Terrill

I found this out-of-print title in a thrift shop and happily took it home with me for a trip back in time. In 1971, Ross Terrill traveled to China as a correspondent for the Atlantic Monthly, spending six weeks on a tour that extended 7000 miles. The book is an expanded version of Terrill’s Atlantic articles about the trip, and details not only his meetings with high-level officials such as Zhou Enlai, but also chronicles his observations of daily life across the country. Published on the eve of Richard Nixon’s February 1972 trip to China, 800,000,000 is a brief but evocative look at “what China is like” for an audience that was largely unlikely to travel there.

Excerpt:

In my imagination, the train was history’s conveyor belt, rolling, not ninety miles to Canton, but from one universe to another. In fact, the train was its usual workaday self. It was loaded with housewives, workmen heading for the New Territories, vendors with beer and cigarettes, youths going out to Shatin for a swim. For these people the train was a “local,” boring as a subway ride in Manhattan. For a few others — politicians from the Komeito (Clean Government party) of Japan, an Indian diplomat, myself — it was an international train, bound for a land which even today exudes mystery. These bored and worldly carriages also contained a certain excitement. . . .

There really are “two Chinas.” Not “Taiwan” and the “Mainland,” but rather the image we have of China in the United States, and the reality of China. Our press talks of China as power struggles and bombs and numbers. But here is China as rice and heat, glue and vaccinations, babies crying, old men playing chess. Last week, China was for me a matter of embassies and letters and magazines arriving by post. This morning, it has become a matter of trains and tea, Chinese beds, telephone numbers, weariness. There is a purging, utterly simple wonder about actually chugging mile by mile into China. The cardboard figures of a frozen scenario start to breathe and sweat and make a noise. From San Francisco to Singapore and beyond, you find pockets of Chinese society. But only in China do you see this civilization in its present power and in its ancient and beautiful cradle, and begin to sense how much the Chinese people and nation may mean in the pattern of future decades (1-2).

• The Wild Wild East: An American Art Critic’s Adventures in China by Barbara Pollack

Barbara Pollack’s book examines the Chinese contemporary art scene, which she has covered for a variety of publications since the late 1990s. The book is part memoir and part exposé, propelled by Pollack’s accounts of scheming artists, corrupt dealers, and questionable museum practices. I emerged from The Wild Wild East feeling as if the art market in China is a prime example of the emperor’s new clothes, as collectors drive prices higher and higher simply for the caché of being able to afford exorbitantly priced art.

To understand more about how that works, perhaps I should pick up one of the books Amazon suggests will pair well with Pollack’s: The $12 Million Stuffed Shark: The Curious Economics of Contemporary Art by Don Thompson.

• Beverly Gray mysteries by Clair Blank

The most famous of the 1930s “girl detectives” is still undoubtedly Nancy Drew, but Nancy never made it to China on her travels. However, her far less renowned counterpart, Beverly Gray, did, and I secured two books in the series to see what images of China young readers in the mid-1930s might have absorbed. Well, it seems that the more things change, the more they stay the same:

Shanghai was but another surprise on top of all they had had so far. Heretofore, when they had spoken of China, while at home in America, it had been with various flights of fancy. Certainly they had not expected such an Americanized scene.

They gazed in surprise at the tall, foreign buildings, mostly offices and hotels; at the well-policed streets; and, in the business sections, at red and green traffic lights! (Beverly Gray in the Orient, 190).

• Haibao and Sanmao Idle Talk About Shanghai «海宝&三毛话上海» by Le Cheng Yan 乐澄彦

I’ll conclude with one of the strangest books I’ve read — ever. The 1930s cartoon character Sanmao has been one of my main research obsessions for the past couple of years, and Jeff Wasserstrom brought this book back from the Expo for me because Sanmao is one of its two leading characters. The premise of the book is that Expo mascot Haibao and longtime Shanghai resident Sanmao join together to introduce Shanghai to Expo visitors. Sanmao (being 74 years old) is in charge of topics dealing with old Shanghai, while young Haibao discusses new Shanghai, mainly Pudong. The content of the book is somewhat . . . eclectic (I learned a lot about wetlands and river dredging), but what I found most interesting is actually the presence of Sanmao himself. In old cartoons Sanmao isn’t exactly fond of the foreigners living in Shanghai, but now he happily welcomes visitors to the Expo. And Haibao, his hyper younger brother, can’t wait to greet them all.

Most of the people in Philadelphia this holiday weekend have come for the Fourth of July festivities, such as readings of the Declaration of Independence and tours of Independence Hall. This year, however, a special event was part of the city’s eleven-day “Welcome America!” celebration: on Saturday, July 3, a street fair in Philadelphia’s Chinatown marked not only the 234th birthday of the United States, but also the 140th birthday of the Chinatown neighborhood itself (the district’s founding is dated to the establishment of a laundry at 9th and Race Streets in 1870). The afternoon was filled with musical performances, a lion dance, and ping-pong and mah-jong tournaments, as well as plenty of sidewalk vendors selling water ice and cold drinks to combat the day’s 90-degree temperatures.

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Chinatown 1

Chinatown 2

Chinatown 4

Photos by Brendan Cunningham and Maura Elizabeth Cunningham

Maura Elizabeth Cunningham: How did Danwei get started, and what is its primary mission? Has this changed over time?

Jeremy Goldkorn: The reason I started Danwei was that there seemed to be a huge gap between the China I was living in and the way it was reported in the English language media. More specifically, I had worked in the media industry since 1997, and I wanted to describe the excitement and dynamism of the Chinese media scene. In 2003, there was very little written in English and published on the Internet that reflected the real situation and an outsider could have been forgiven for thinking all Chinese journalists and editors were brain-washed apparatchiks.

I started Danwei in 2003 as a one man blog, translating and commenting on interesting articles and trends I was seeing in Chinese media and advertising. At the time, there were very few English-language online sources of information about the Chinese media, and far less coverage of China in the international press than there is today. The information gap between presentations of China in English and the reality of life in China seemed almost criminal.

In its early years, we posted short translations from the Chinese media and Internet postings, comments on funny advertisements and egregious intellectual property infringements, and articles about off the wall subjects like transssexuals entering beauty pageants.

We still do more or less the same thing, but we publish much longer translations now. Every weekday, we summaries the front page of a Chinese newspaper, so we now have an archive of daily snapshots of Chinese life as seen through the mainstream media going back four years. We produce a lot of video, mostly interviews in English and Mandarin. Another relatively new feature is the extensive links blog at the top of Danwei.org where Danwei writers recommend news and good writing in English about China elsewhere on the Internet.

Danwei is now a four person company. We make money mostly from jobs ads on DanweiJobs.com, and from custom research projects for media companies, and for other companies that want to know what Chinese people are saying about them in the media and online.

MEC: On blogs and websites, stories quickly live and die — one week a post will get picked up and linked to by dozens of different people, but by the next week it’s already been left behind. Is there a story you’ve run that had a particularly long life? What do you think were the reasons for its endurance?

JG: The stories that people continue linking to long after they have been published are usually long pieces with original research and reporting, particularly some of the contributions from writers who don’t work for Danwei, such as the essays we’ve published by David Moser about Chinese media, self-censorship, and Chinese comedy (e.g. “Stifled Laughter: How the Communist Party Killed Chinese Humor”). We also come quite high on Google-related searches, so depending on what’s happening in the news, old stuff sometimes gets a new life if it is about a popular or newly trending search term.

Our videos also continue to get watched on Youtube, Vimeo.com and Tudou.com.

MEC: What’s one China story that you would like to see told in a different way?

JG: I don’t think it’s one particular story. It continues to amaze me how little the average Westerner knows about China. It’s not that the information isn’t available, especially online. But mainstream new media in the U.S. and other countries remains parochial, and generally does not cover China except when there is bad news or a visually appealing event like the Olympics (television is of course the worst culprit).

MEC: In addition to blogs and websites, where do you turn for China updates, news, and insights? Are there authors, books, or newsmedia that you turn to for their reliable China coverage? Are there any new websites that you’ve recently begun tracking that you’d recommend to other readers?

JG: We recommend a lot of blogs and China websites in our Model Worker’s section.

Aside from the China websites, China reporting by newspaper journalists and blogs, one must at some point escape the Twitterized Internet and read books. I recently did a segment on an episode of Kaiser Kuo’s Sinica podcast that recommends a huge range of good books about China:

MEC: What is the future of Danwei? Where is it headed? Any changes on the horizon?

JG: More of the same, but better. We want to commission more original work, cover broader cultural and social issues than we have in the past and our team is also now working closely with the newly established Australian Centre on China in the World at the Australia National University at Canberra. Details of our collaboration will be announced as the Centre begins its formal activities from July.

By Maura Elizabeth Cunningham

Richard McGregor is the former Beijing bureau chief for the Financial Times and author of the newly released The Party: The Secret World of China’s Communist Rulers. I recently conducted the interview below with McGregor via e-mail; you can read excerpts from the book here and here and also find a “Why I Write” profile of McGregor at the Urbanatomy site.

What is The Party about? What new knowledge do you hope readers will come away with after they’re finished?

My purpose was simply to describe the political system as it really is. I think few people, even foreigners living in China, appreciate just how vast and resilient the party apparatus that underpins the government in China is, and how deeply its tentacles extend into all manners of institutions, like universities and the media. And often people who do know a lot about the party will attempt to explain it away, as a product of Chinese culture or some such. I wanted to describe in an unflinchingly fashion a system that is the product of resolutely political arrangements.

The other major theme of my book is secrecy. Once you begin to describe bodies like the Central Organisation Department, which is really the world’s most powerful human resources outfit, you can convey just how absurdly secretive the CCP is. This body controls the lives and careers of a vast elite in China, and it has no sign outside of its office and no listed phone number! To me, simple facts like this don’t need dressing up. Just tell it as it is and hopefully readers will get a sense of what a strange pre-modern body the CCP is.

I think a lot of western journalists do have a sense of how pervasive the party is but it is quite a hard thing to explain in day-to-day news stories. Frankly, it is also hard to explain to editors back in head office at all. It is kind of like – “The Central Organisation what?!”

How did you penetrate “the secret world” of the CCP leadership? What kinds of sources did you draw on to write The Party?

I am not sure I did really penetrate it. A friend of mine once compared reporting on China as like knitting a sweater. You get one strand of wool here and one there. Eventually you have enough for a sleeve. A few years later, you have a full sweater. Once I settled on the topic, I discovered there was all sorts of strands of information out there but you rarely get to sit down with a government official who will give you box-and-dice about how the system works from the inside. There is lots of stuff, much of it new, in my book. But in truth, I think I have barely scratched the surface.

In a recent Huffington Post piece, you wrote that “the remarkable and largely overlooked truth about China is that it is still governed on Soviet hardware.” What challenges do you imagine that might create in the years to come?

The system is both rigid and flexible. Rigid because of the party’s insistence on a monopoly on political power. And flexible, because it is an administrative system, not subject to the law. The system has proved much more adaptable than many people thought it would, but I think the path has been made easier by the success of the economy. Once the economy slows and there is less money to pass around, it is not clear how the system will manage except by ramping up the repression. Expectations have been raised in China along with living standards. If the party has to fight to hang onto power, I think large sections of the population will push back.

In your opinion, what has held the CCP together in the face of massive social changes over the past two decades?

On top of economic growth, nationalism is the stickiest glue binding the people and powerholders together. The Chinese are quite rightly proud of what they have achieved in the last three decades. They have a chip on their shoulder about the developed world, but equally, the way the imperialist west, and Japan, trampled over China in the 19th and 20th century gives the nationalist lobby lots of ammunition. The party has been very cynical and canny in the way they have used this to scrub up their own image. China gives free rein to anyone who wants to publicise Japanese wartime atrocities but heaven help anyone who turns the mirror of history onto the CCP’s own record!

What is your sense about the relationship between the Chinese people and the CCP today? Do you think your book says anything that would surprise a Chinese reader?

I wouldn’t pretend to know what the Chinese reader might think, except that a number of Chinese have been quite thrilled to read about their system in a way they are constrained from saying or writing themselves.

As to the relationship between the CCP and the people, it is a highly sensitive topic. In some ways, they have little to do with each other directly. People deal with the system through the government rather than the party. The party in turn has a rather patronizing daddy-knows-best attitude to the people. By and large, they leave each other alone in day-to-day life. But once anyone crosses that red line into organized politics, the party can turn into a very brutal beast indeed.

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By Maura Elizabeth Cunningham

NY 1964

The Unisphere

My grandfather took his job as family photographer seriously, and over the course of four decades he produced several huge boxes of slides that my mother has recently begun scanning and digitizing. Mixed in with the usual snapshots of weddings, birthday parties, and holiday gatherings are photos he took during a family trip to the 1964/’65 World’s Fair in New York.

NY 1964 pic 2

New York State Exhibit

On other occasions he took dozens of pictures, but there are only seven slides from their day at the World’s Fair (“It was really hot,” my mother offered as a possible explanation for her father’s uncharacteristic photographic reticence). He got two shots of the Fair’s symbol, the Unisphere, and a couple of landscape photos, plus a blurry picture of the Thai pavilion. The final slide is this view of the Chinese (Republic of China, that is) pavilion, sitting beneath the Swiss Sky Ride:

Taiwan pavilion 1964

Thanks to this site, I was able to learn more about the exhibit, in the same words that my grandfather might have read in the “1964 Pavilion Guide”:

This is the first time that such a building, in the best architectural style of the Chinese imperial palace, has been erected in the Western Hemisphere. Every piece of roof tile was handmade, and every ceiling panel hand painted in Taiwan, repository and defender of Chinese culture. Everything in this pavilion has a meaning, from the ceremonial arch guarding the grounds, to the intricately carved wood screen immediately inside the entrance. The latter, entitled “100 Birds Pay Tribute to Queen Phoenix,” symbolizes visitors coming from all over the world to see the New York World’s Fair.

Interestingly, in the 1964 guide, the author wrote that “The Chinese Pavilion hopes to offer an oasis of peace and quietude that is different from the myriad attractions of the Fair. The purpose is not to impress or dazzle, but to provide a change of pace, a place for reflection and quiet enjoyment of a mellow culture, a heritage of one of the world’s oldest nations.” By the following year, however, the tone of the guidebook had changed. Visitors in 1965 were no longer encouraged to seek refuge in the pavilion, but instead urged to educate themselves about life in Taiwan:

Larger than life beauties, in a photo-mural from the “Miss China” pageant, reign over the exhibits from a raised palace room. Products are arranged to show how the Chinese dress (fabrics to fashion styles), what they consume (Chinese cuisine, canned food, table wines and tobacco), how they live (building materials to low-cost housing projects), and how they travel (sedan, motorcycle and bicycle). All objects shown are, of course, made in Taiwan, which enjoyed Asia’s highest growth rate in the last decade.

In addition to this shift in focus from the history of Chinese culture to the modernity of Taiwan, the pavilion also added a restaurant for the 1965 season, offering “the standard Chinese dishes.” No indication of what that meant, but it has piqued my curiosity; if anyone has knowledge of what was on the menu, please send me an e-mail (thechinabeat[at]gmail[dot]com).

All photographs by William R. Thompson

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